FAQs about Protective Styling

We understand that you may have many, many questions about protective styling. Well, we have some answers!

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Is protective styling necessary to retain length?

Absolutely not! Many naturals have never protective styled a day in their life and have still managed to retain awesome length. However, if your hair is prone to breakage, if you live a busy lifestyle, if you need a break from your hair, and/or your hair needs a break from you, protective styling can definitely be beneficial and aid in length retention.  

How can I tell my hair is moisturized if it’s put away?

Sometimes you cannot, and you simply have to believe it is, merely off faith. However, some protective styles will allow you to do what I call the “strand test.” I do not typically do this until the two-week mark, but you can definitely adjust that figure to your own preference.

Here is an example of what I do: My most common form of a protective style is flat twists. So, after about two weeks of moisturizing my hair in flat twists, I will take down one of my flat twists to assess its condition. If it feels moisturized, I simply flat twist it back up and continue doing what I’ve been doing. However, if it feels  dry, I need to determine whether the dryness can be fixed or whether I need to take down my hair to rewash, deep condition, moisturize, and restyle.

Is wearing a wig a protective style?

Yes, it sure is.  As long as your hair underneath is protected in some way (e.g. flat twists, braids, twists, etc.) it can be considered a protective style. You also want to be sure that you are using a wig cap so the lining of the wig does not pull your hair out. You also want to avoid using heavy glues for lace front wigs.  

I only have a TWA, can I still protective style?

Of course, it is just going to take a little bit of creativity. What you are able to do with your hair will depend on your length, but here a few examples: twists, wigs, weaves, braids, flat twists, and finger coils/comb coils. Extensions are also an example, but you want to be very careful with using extensions during your TWA stage, especially if you are going to a professional, as they may put way too much tension on your hair and scalp.  

Is a bun a low manipulation style or a protective style? I am confused.

A bun can be either one, it just depends on how you do it. If you take down your bun every morning to redo it, then it is typically considered a low manipulation style. If you keep your bun in for a longer period of time, it is usually then called a protective style. Regardless, always make sure that your buns are not too tight. If you are getting headaches or experiencing any discomfort, please take it down and redo it or opt for a different style.  

I’ve never had to do my own hair before. I don’t know how to braid, flat twist, twist -- anything! How am I supposed to do all of this?

You are definitely not alone.

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Personal Story

Like you, I had not even an ounce of a clue how to do my hair -- but I eventually learned. I would look at countless tutorials on YouTube over how to do flat twists, kinky twists, etc. Whenever I had a free weekend, I would try it out and see if I could do it -- more times than not I couldn’t...or it looked an absolute mess. Eventually, after many sessions of practice, I got the hang of it, and though even now it’s still not neat, I can still manage to get the job done!

My suggestion to you would be to check out as many tutorials as you can and then just give them a shot. You will never learn, unless you try them out and then further your skills with practice. It may not be perfect at first, but you will eventually catch on, and you may even discover techniques that work better for you along the way.  

If you decide that learning how to style your own hair is simply not for you, you can always visit a natural hair salon and cough up a few bucks.  

What is the best protective style for thin edges?

If you have thin edges, you definitely want to avoid any style that causes unnecessary tension on your edges or scalp. The best option, in my opinion, is a full cap wig (lace wigs are known to snatch edges) and then twisting/flat twisting your hair underneath.  

If you are not into wigs, your next best option is to simply leave your edges out of any other protective style you do (e.g. instead of installing kinky twists along your edges, keep about .5 to 1 inch of your edges out). Then, flat twist (braiding may be too harsh) the edges you leave out to help them from further breaking off. If you want to cover up the flat twist for a more appealing look, you can try wearing something like a scarf.

You also want to avoid constantly slicking your edges back with a “brush or using max hold gels. If you feel that you absolutely must slick your edges back, try applying a control paste or edge control, and then use your fingers to smooth your edges.

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Why does my scalp itch so badly when I have protective styles in?

There can be several contributing factors to your itchy scalp. A few may be that the products you are using on your scalp or hair are starting to irritate it the more you use them, are drying out your scalp, and/or are building up and clogging your pores. Also, your scalp could be sensitive to or dried out by the air, your style may be too tight, and if you have in extensions, you may be allergic to the type of hair used, etc.  

If you are scratching your scalp, do NOT scratch with your nails as this may cause damage to the scalp and more than likely itch even more due to the healing process of your now open wound. If you must scratch, use the pads of your fingers.

Also, tea tree oil may be effective in relieving some of the itchiness, but if it gets too bad, please consider taking the protective style out and washing your hair and scalp thoroughly.  

How long am I supposed to keep protective styles in for?

It will vary with each different style you wear and for each individual. You can keep it in for 2 days, 2 months, or any time in between. I would not recommend, however, that you keep a protective style in for longer than 2 months, especially if you are not washing or deep conditioning your hair. Keeping protective styles in for too long can reverse the benefits and turn them into setbacks. You definitely want to listen to what your hair is telling you, as this will be your best predictor of when it is time for you to take your protective style down.  

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Didn't see your question answered? No worries — shoot us an email at: hello@bellagaura.com. We'd be more than happy to help!